Discovering Napoleon’s Paris

Over two centuries after his reign, Napoléon Bonaparte remains an inescapable presence throughout Paris. As you explore the French capital, stunning monuments and places intricately intertwined with his legend await around every corner. From his dizzying heights of power to his devastating fall, these landmarks stand witnesses to one of history’s most epic tales and to a leader that forever transformed Europe.

For visitors hoping to discover Napoléon’s Paris, here is my personal guide to some of the sites that, I feel, chronicle his meteoric rise, tragic demise, architectural legacy, and the nuances of his enduring yet controversial reputation.

 

 

The Arc de Triomphe: Memorializing a Pivotal Age

 

By far the most iconic vestige of Napoléon in Paris is the magnificent Arc de Triomphe, anchoring the historic Champs-Elysées at the center of the Place Charles de Gaulle. Ordered by Napoléon himself in 1806 to celebrate his Grand Army’s achievements, its towering scale and intricate sculptural detailing evoke the splendor of imperial Rome. The ambitious design by Jean Chalgrin pays homage to monumental Roman arches, embedding Napoléon’s ambitions within far older traditions of victory memorials.

Despite the fall of Napoléon’s empire, construction resumed in 1823 under the later Bourbon Restoration. While the monument’s dedication shifted to honor all French soldiers across conflicts, its central purpose remains unchanged — memorializing an entire generation’s sacrifice during France’s Revolutionary and Napoleonic campaigns that utterly transformed Europe.

As you crane your neck to admire the ornate figures crowning each pier, take a little time to appreciate the superb attention to detail. Massive sculptures including Cortot’s Triumph of Napoléon depict both martial courage and duty to nation in vivid allegorical form. Below the colossal arch, names of 558 generals who served in Napoléon’s campaigns are meticulously inscribed, along with countless historic French victories from across these pivotal decades.

Beneath the arch itself lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier interred from World War I, with an eternal flame commemorating lives lost for France across all her great conflicts. It is good to remember the soil on which you stand, steeped in layer upon layer of history’s turbulence.

When passing under the monumental arch itself, spare a moment to study the intricate bas-relief carvings along its inner walls. Meticulously executed vignettes depict stirring scenes like The Battle of Austerlitz in minute historic detail, epitomizing Napoléon’s genius and dashing heroism for posterity.

No site better encapsulates France’s complex reckoning with her violent past — at once unapologetic of former military glories, yet somberly cognizant of their grave sacrifices. Gaze upward at this mammoth arch, and you behold an aspect of the nation’s soul laid bare.

The Louvre: Artistic Spoils Fueling Ambition

 

The transformation of the Louvre into a public museum during the French Revolution marked a significant shift in its role and accessibility. Originally a royal palace with a vast collection of art and antiquities, the Louvre’s metamorphosis began when the National Constituent Assembly, in May 1791, declared it a place for the assembly of all sciences and arts. This decision was propelled by the imprisonment of Louis XVI in August 1792 and the subsequent conversion of the royal collection into national property. Concerns over vandalism and theft led to rapid efforts to prepare the museum for public display.

The museum officially opened on August 10, 1793, coinciding with the anniversary of the monarchy’s fall. It was initially accessible to the public for free on three days each week, a move that was widely appreciated. The opening collection comprised 537 paintings and 184 art objects, mostly derived from royal collections, with additional pieces from confiscated properties of émigrés and the Church.

To further enhance and organize the collection, the Republic allocated a significant annual budget. The early years of the museum were somewhat chaotic, with a packed and unlabeled display of paintings and ongoing residence of privileged artists. The Louvre had to close in May 1796 due to structural issues but reopened in July 1801 with improved arrangements and lighting.

The Napoleonic era ushered in further changes. In 1802, Napoleon appointed Dominique Vivant Denon as the first director of the museum, who later renamed it the Musée Napoléon in 1803. As Napoléon systematically defeated regimes across Europe, their greatest cultural treasures filled the Louvre galleries. Befitting an emperor who saw himself as a latter-day Caesar Augustus, he essentially turned Paris’ royal palace into the Western world’s premier museum.  Notably, the Treaty of Campo Formio and the Treaty of Tolentino facilitated the transfer of numerous art pieces and antiquities from Italy to the Louvre, including the Horses of Saint Mark and statues of the Nile and Tiber.

However, the defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo led to demands for the return of looted artworks. Despite the reluctance of Denon, the museum’s administrator, to comply without a formal treaty of restitution, many pieces were eventually returned under diplomatic pressure and agreements, although not all were restored to their original locations. The Louvre’s evolution during this period reflects the tumultuous political and cultural changes of the era and highlights the complex interplay between art, power, and national identity. Just as Roman conquerors once proudly displayed the riches of vanquished rivals in triumphal parades, Napoléon strategically deployed his artistic loot both to intimidate and impress. The Louvre stands as testament to plunder’s power in service of his imperial ambition.

 

The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel

 

The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, an iconic monument in Paris, stands proudly between the Louvre and the Tuileries Gardens.  Constructed between 1806 and 1808, it was erected to celebrate Napoleon’s military victories during the Wars of the Third and Fourth Coalitions.

The Arcs strategic location marks the beginning of the Axe historique, an imaginary line that runs through the heart of Paris, starting from the Tuileries Gardens, passing through the Place de la Concorde, along the famous Champs-Élysées, and culminating at the larger and more renowned Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile. The placement of the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel at this significant point not only commemorates Napoleon’s triumphs but also integrates into the broader narrative of Paris’s architectural and historical evolution.

The arch itself is a beautiful example of Neoclassical architecture, specifically in the Corinthian order. Its design, conceived by the architects Charles Percier and Pierre François Léonard Fontaine, drew inspiration from the Arch of Septimius Severus in Rome. Measuring 63 feet high, 75 feet wide, and 24 feet deep, the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel is significantly smaller than its counterpart, the Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile. Nonetheless, it stands out with its exquisite Corinthian columns, detailed bas-reliefs depicting key moments from Napoleon’s military campaigns, and a striking chariot pulled by four horses atop the monument.

I find the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel a fascinating stop. Its rich historical context and artistic beauty make it a noteworthy landmark, providing a deeper understanding of the city’s past and the legacy of Napoleon’s reign.

 

Rue de Rivoli: Napoleons Visionary Grand Scheme 

 

Among Napoléon’s most ambitious civic projects was carving a grand boulevard linking the Louvre to opulent aristocratic quarters beyond the Tuileries, showcasing treasured vistas of ordered beauty at the heart of his gilded capital.

Ordered by First Consul Napoléon in 1801, the mile-long Rue de Rivoli involved demolishing hundreds of medieval houses to create the longest street in Paris. Its symmetrical uniformity exemplified French Neoclassical aesthetics, with stately apartment blocks rising behind spiked iron railings. Yet the project also advanced military strategy — straight avenues prevented counter-revolutionaries and mob rioters from barricading winding alleyways.

For nearly a decade constant construction noise and rubble plagued households forced to vacate coveted heart-of-Paris addresses. But despite its disruptiveness, Rue de Rivoli fulfilled Napoléon’s desire integrating grandeur of classical antiquity with efficient modern city planning.

The Paris we admire today owes its order and beauty tremendously to Baron Haussmann’s later Second Empire urban vision. Yet Haussmann built directly upon grand schemes pioneered under by his civic role model Napoléon half a century prior. As you stroll this picturesque artery linking historic sites like the Louvre, Place de la Concorde, and Hôtel de Ville, appreciate it as genesis point of the modern French capital crafted in Napoléon’s own image.

 

Place Vendôme: Hub of French History’s Upheavals 

 

At the heart of Paris’s poshest shopping district lies a lavish urban ensemble intimately tied to Napoléon’s ambitions. The elegant octagonal Place Vendôme has borne witness to seminal moments in French history, from Napoléon’s rise, fall, comeback and final end to the toppling of monarchy itself. At its center soars a 141-foot bronze column that Napoléon erected between 1806 and 1810, created from over 1200 enemy cannons seized at Austerlitz. Topped initially with a statue of himself, this ostentatious monument commemorated Napoléon’s decisive 1805 win at Austerlitz ensuring his dominance over Russia and Austria.

The extravagant bas-reliefs spiraling skyward recount the pivotal battle in meticulous detail, following one continuous narrative of cavalry charges, field maneuvers and scenes of combat. As you crane your neck to scrutinize events unfolding, consider how regimes across two centuries continued replacing the column’s statuary to reflect new ideologies and signal political change.

Like Paris herself, this city square acts as a microcosm for France’s turbulent modern history where seismic political upheavals play out with violent regularity. In 1871 the same column glorifying an emperor was torn down by the revolutionary socialist Paris Commune seeking to erase symbols of tyranny. Barely two decades later it was fully restored with a newly updated statue, this time mythologizing Napoléon as military liberator rather than autocrat.

 

The Chapel of Les Invalides

 

Les Invalides in Paris, an impressive 17th-century complex, was established for the care of disabled veterans and includes a significant place of worship. Commissioned by Louis XIV in 1670, it was constructed in a span of five years under the architectural guidance of Libéral Bruant. The chapel of Les Invalides, a later addition by architect Jules-Hardouin Mansart, is renowned for housing Napoleon Bonaparte’s tomb.

This tomb is a central feature of Les Invalides, marked by a striking red porphyry sarcophagus and encompassing five nested coffins. The design of the tomb was the work of Italian-born architect Louis-Tullius-Joachim Visconti. Additionally, the tomb includes contributions from artists such as James Pradier, Pierre-Charles Simart, and Francisque Joseph Duret.

The journey of Napoleon’s remains to Les Invalides is a story of national pride and remembrance. Originally interred on Saint Helena following his death, Napoleon’s remains were relocated to France in 1840, an initiative orchestrated by King Louis Philippe and Prime Minister Adolphe Thiers. This event, known as the ‘Return of the Ashes,’ culminated in the enactment of a law on June 10th, 1840, which ordered the construction of Napoleon’s final resting place beneath the dome of Les Invalides. The interment of Napoleon’s body at Les Invalides was completed on April 2, 1861, solidifying the site’s significance in French history.

The Legacy of Napoléon Across Paris

 

As you explore these and other Napoleonic sites, don’t simply seek to conjure the meteoric rise and calamitous collapse of an emperor who dominated Europe like no French ruler since Charlemagne. Consider the rich architectural and cultural legacy he aggressively implemented during his zenith years, institutions and infrastructure we now take for granted as integral to Paris’ grandeur.

Appreciate how Napoléon’s vision and outsized ambition laid key groundwork that later architects of the modern French capital like Baron Haussmann astutely built upon. Probe beneath one-dimensional portrayals of either reckless warmonger or administrative genius to uncover a complex figure forever wedded to France’s sense of herself. And contemplate how the passage of time recasts the meaning of monuments and symbols once intended to enshrine a ruler for all posterity.

Like towering pillars weathered by passing storms yet still standing firm, Napoléon’s Paris reveals hard truths about an incomparable epoch…and the entire human condition itself. The city he so passionately worked to reshape remains his most magnificent self-portrait for all who care to take a closer look.

 

Just outside Paris,

 

Fontainebleau: Where an Era’s Final Act Unfolded

 

For history buffs, no site better encapsulates Napoléon’s fortunes than the Palace of Fontainebleau. An hour outside Paris, this cherished royal residence was eagerly adopted by Napoléon as a beloved retreat, who undertook swift renovations in 1804 to accommodate his auspicious coronation as Emperor.

Take time to appreciate the monumental horseshoe staircase where a distraught Napoléon bid farewell to his Imperial Guard with an emotional speech on 20 April 1814. Forced to abdicate by shrinking domestic and military support, he movingly defended his reign as guided solely by love for France, ending: “Be what I have known you for 25 years, the most brave and loyal of men.” Stand in this very spot where the tough veteran fighters famously broke into tears, devastated to see Napoléon’s rule conclude.

Upstairs lies the opulent bedchamber where Napoléon unsuccessfully attempted suicide during those final desperate hours in power, overwhelmed by failure and abandonment by former allies. A museum within the palace today displays an expansive array of Napoléon’s possessions and artifacts offering intimate glimpses into his inner circle.

As you traverse the Hall of the Imperial Guard lined by portraits of his most senior officers, consider the human scale of loyalty and loss tied to Napoléon’s precipitous fall. Like a microcosm of disillusioned France herself, these battle-hardened men who pledged youth and limb to their visionary emperor were crushed to watch the demise of all they fought for.

Yet devastating and even humiliating as his first abdication proved, Napoléon’s connection to Fontainebleau underscores his uncanny ability to remake reality when opportune moments arose. Having cunningly escaped his Mediterranean exile on Elba in 1815, Napoléon made an impulsive though fleeting return to Fontainebleau as resurgent Emperor during his final Hundred Days campaign to reclaim power. Wandering these gilded halls, conjure the exhilaration and whiplash of those last mercurial weeks when all of France believed their celebrated emperor had resurrected against the odds, before final defeat at Waterloo.

 

Château de Malmaison: A Glimpse into the Life of Napoleon and Josephine Bonaparte

 

Nestled just seven miles west of Paris, the Château de Malmaison holds a storied place in the annals of French history, particularly during the intriguing era of Napoleon Bonaparte. Purchased by Josephine Bonaparte in April 1799, this once run-down estate soon transformed into a haven of opulence and botanical marvels under her meticulous care, reflecting the turbulent yet fascinating lives of its most famous occupants.

Imagine the surprise and fury of General Napoléon Bonaparte, upon his return from the Egyptian Campaign, discovering that Josephine had invested a small fortune (over 300,000 francs) in Malmaison. This grand estate, in need of extensive renovations, soon blossomed under Josephine’s vision. She aspired to create “the most beautiful and curious garden in Europe,” a dream that she pursued relentlessly.

Josephine’s passion for horticulture was unmatched. She built a heated orangery for 300 pineapple plants and later a greenhouse warmed by coal-burning stoves. Her dedication saw nearly 200 new plant species cultivated in France. However, her most enduring legacy at Malmaison is the rose garden. With 250 varieties of roses, some from her native Martinique, this garden was immortalized in the stunning artwork of Pierre-Joseph Redouté.

Josephine’s love for the natural world didn’t stop at plants. The grounds of Malmaison also played host to an array of exotic animals like kangaroos, emus, black swans, and even llamas, many sourced from the Baudin expedition. These creatures roamed freely, adding an almost surreal quality to the estate.

Malmaison was more than just a residence; it was a testament to the complexities of Napoleon and Josephine’s relationship. After their divorce in 1809, Josephine retained Malmaison, living there until her death in 1814. Napoleon, despite their separation, continued to visit, maintaining a connection that outlasted their marriage.

In a poignant twist of fate, after his defeat at Waterloo, Napoleon returned to Malmaison before his exile to Saint Helena. It’s easy to imagine him wandering the once-lavish halls and gardens, now a shadow of their former glory, reflecting on his meteoric rise and fall amidst the backdrop of Josephine’s botanical paradise.

 

Malmaison Today:

 

Today, the Château de Malmaison stands as a museum, preserving the legacy of Napoleon and Josephine. Visitors can explore the rich art and history of the Consular period, walking through rooms that once echoed with the whispers of power, love, and ambition.

In essence, Malmaison is a vivid tapestry of French history, art, and personal drama, intertwined with the lives of one of history’s most fascinating couples.  For those captivated by the allure of historical narratives and the enchantment of botanical wonders, a visit to the Château de Malmaison promises an unforgettable journey through the lives of Napoleon and Josephine Bonaparte. Discover the stories that shaped France, nestled in the heart of a garden that still whispers tales of love, ambition, and beauty.