The holiday season in Hungary is truly magical. As a frequent visitor, I’m always amazed by the wonderful traditions and celebrations that make Christmas here so special. Some people even claim that you can’t fully experience Christmas until you’ve spent it in Hungary!
In this post, I’ll take you through some of my favorite Hungarian Christmas delights. From beautiful markets to family meals, we’ll explore the sights, sounds and tastes that make Christmas in Hungary a fairytale wonderland. Come along and see why this is one of my top European destinations for Christmas!
A Festive Start: St. Nicholas Day
Long before the Christmas trees go up, the celebrations start in Hungary on December 6th with St. Nicholas Day. Known locally as Mikulás, this is one of the biggest days in Hungary. Children polish their shoes and set them on the window, eagerly awaiting small gifts of sweets, chocolate or nuts that Mikulás will place inside the shoes overnight. However if you were bad, you receive virgács a stylized switch of birch sticks often gilded and wrapped in red paper from Krampusz!
Walking the streets on the morning of the 6th is truly a treat. Excited children show off their goodies from Mikulás as families head out to celebrate with sweets and special treats. The pastry shops overflow with delicious Mikulás-themed chocolates, cakes and cookies. It’s a taste of the confection perfection to come!
Luca Day: A Hungarian Folk Tradition
Observed annually on December 13th, Luca Day coincides with the Winter Solstice, marking the shortest day and longest night of the year. Historically, this darkest day was associated with witches, spirits, and the supernatural in Hungarian folk belief. The twelve days between the Solstice and Christmas are known as the Luca calendar, a period filled with love spells, weather prediction, and traditional practices to ward off evil forces.
One of the best known traditions involves a girl writing down 12 potential suitors on small slips of paper. Then, leading up to Christmas, she burns one slip each evening before bed. Kind of like an advent calendar! Whoever’s name remained on the final piece on Christmas Eve was thought to be her destined groom.
A practice in more rural communities is forecasting the coming years’ weather using onions or garlic In this traditional weather forecast, 12 pieces of onion or garlic are salted, the ones that release the most water represent the months that will be rainiest next year!
One of Hungary’s most renowned folk customs during the Luca calendar is the ritual carving of the Luca Chair. This chair must be constructed out of nine different types of wood, with just a single carving made per day. The chair must be fully carved by Christmas Eve. The creator of the chair would then transport it to midnight mass, where the chair’s height supposedly enabled its occupant to spot any witches lurking among the congregation. An old Hungarian maxim, “Készül, mint a Luca széke” meaning “You are preparing it as slowly as a Luca Chair,” derives from this practice.
Christmas markets
From late November, the Christmas markets begin to fill the squares of Budapest and towns across Hungary. The markets here are simply wonderful – they capture the spirit of the season perfectly.
These traditional markets open up around mid-November and run all the way till the end of the month. The biggest and most popular in Budapest is in Vörösmarty Square, with its rows and rows of wooden stalls all lit up at night. But there are several smaller markets sprinkled throughout the city too – like at St. Stephen’s Basilica, in the Óbuda district, or if you take a quick day trip up to the riverside town of Szentendre.
At the markets, you’ll find a wide selection of handicrafts made by local artisans. Intricately painted porcelain, handmade figurines, woven blankets…so many beautiful keepsakes to choose from! And the food is just incredible. You must try kürtőskalács, also called chimney cake – they take sweet dough, wrap it around a wooden cylinder, and bake it rotating over open fire. Then they roll the smoked, toasted pastry in cinnamon sugar. Heavenly! You’ll also find all sorts of Hungarian meat, cheese, and pastry specialties sizzling away. The handicrafts, music and food transport you back to Christmas celebrations of the past. And there are activities for kids too, like cookie decorating or arts & crafts.
The Feast of Christmas Eve and Christmas Dinner
On the morning of the 24th preparations for the evening’s feast begin. Family members often fast through the day, building up anticipation for the coming holiday meal. It is on Christmas Eve that traditionally the Christmas tree is decorated.
It may may surprise you to hear, but Christmas trees in Hungary are decorated a bit differently than might be used to. One of my favorite Hungarian Christmas traditions is the szaloncukor (Parlor Candy). These are sweets made of fondant, similar to marzipan, that are shaped into small cones or little bundles and then dipped in chocolate. They come wrapped up in the shiniest, most colorful foil you can imagine – red, green, gold, silver and hung on the tree!
Hungarians have been decorating their Karácsonyfák (Christmas trees) with these ornamental szaloncukor since the mid-1800s. You’ll also see lots of hand-blown glass ornaments on the trees, and many families will decorate their trees with pretty stitched and straw ornaments as well, with traditional flowers and motifs. The colors and textures make for a warm, festive sight.
When darkness falls, the Christmas tree lights are switched on and families gather around the beautifully decorated table. Christmas in Hungary is a true festival for the senses!
The centerpiece of the Christmas Eve supper is often fish, like golden fried carp or catfish paprikash. Meatless dishes represent fasting and purification before the holiday. Other common foods include, handicrafted pastas, cabbage rolls, and the winter warmer, fisherman’s soup.
Dessert is the crowning glory. Look for beigli, a rolled cake with walnut or poppyseed filling, or the decadent dobos torte, a many-layered sponge cake. All washed down with cups of hot tea or the seasonal treat, szaloncukor – chocolate candy wrapped in shiny paper.
After the lavish meal, families may head out to midnight mass, or gather around the tree to sing carols and open a few small gifts. Children watch and wait excitedly for the appearance of little Jesus who is said to bring treats and gifts on this holy night.
Christmas Day and Boxing Day
While Christmas Eve holds the big celebrations, December 25th and 26th are still observed. This is a time for resting, playing with new toys, and spending time with loved ones.
On Christmas day, families may enjoy a relaxed brunch of leftovers from the previous night’s feast. Some head out for walks or sledding in crisp, snowy weather.
December 26th is Boxing Day, also known locally as St. Stephen’s Day, when people may visit extended family and friends. Restaurants and cafés will often be open, so this can be a nice day to sample some casual Hungarian fare.
The tradition of regölés
Between Christmas and New year’s day you may experience the tradition of regölés – groups of singers called regősök travel around singing folk songs of holiday well-wishes from December 26 to New Year’s Day. These beautiful Hungarian carols date back to medieval times when lyrics spoke of nature’s magic, greetings, and matchmaking. Regősök still go door-to-door collecting treats while spreading cheer through their harmonies. If you’re spending time in Hungary during Christmas, do stop and listen for these wonderful street performances – living history!
Ringing in the New Year
After the Christmas season, the celebrations culminate in New Year’s Eve and Day. Budapest puts on an unforgettable New Year’s Eve show. Fireworks light up the night sky above the Danube for minutes on end. Boats glide along the river filled with partiers, music and light displays. Walking along the waterfront, you feel the energy and joy pulsing through the crowd as champagne corks pop everywhere. It’s one of Europe’s top New Year’s parties!New Year’s Day brings more feasting, often including the Hungarian good luck foods of pork, lentils, fish, and cabbage. Visiting a family’s home, you’ll find tables overflowing with food and drink to ensure a prosperous year ahead.
This begins a full week of celebrating, with some businesses staying closed until after January 6th. It’s the perfect way to keep the cheerful holiday spirit going strong into the early days of January!
Experience the Magic
Christmas in Hungary is a fairy tale experience that engages all the senses. The sights, sounds, scents and tastes come together to create a magical wonderland perfect for the holiday.
I highly recommend Hungary and Budapest in particular as a top European Christmas destination. Add the history and culture of one of Europe’s most charming countries, and you have a truly memorable way to celebrate the season.
In my opinion, Christmastime in Hungary should be on every traveler’s list. The traditions, cheer, and atmosphere can’t be beat! I hope you’ll consider joining me to soak up all of the holiday delight on a future visit. It’s sure to become your new favorite Christmas tradition!
So nice to get all the traditions before going. Sooo excited to go and to be able to share this experience with you! Happy Thanksgiving!!🦃✈️🌎
hi Jo just saw this ! have a great christmas!