About an hour’s drive from Vienna you come to Bratislava the capital of Slovakia. Although one of the smallest capitals of Europe, this town has a lot to offer. From a very pretty Old Town full of little shops and market stalls, to a city that played a central part in the history of Hungary. In my opinion, for anyone that is interested in the history of central and eastern Europe, a stop in Bratislava is almost a must.
I first came to Bratislava about six months after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. What I found on arriving was a largely dilapidated and dark town, scarred with the marks of communist mismanagement. Over the years, one of the most pleasing parts of my work has been watching the rebirth of many of these places throughout central Europe emerge from the ruins. Today, as I walk the streets of Bratislava, past the rubbernecking ‘Watcher’, and enjoy my favorite hot chocolate on the old town square, I am reminded of my first visit to this town and have to smile.
History
The strategic importance of the location of the present-day Bratislava and its castle has been known since prehistoric times. There are signs of settlement that date back to 2000 BC or even earlier. Later Celts and Romans left their mark and in 9 BC, the castle hill at the Danube became part of the border of the Roman Empire when two roman legions were stationed nearby.
In the lead up to the fall of the Roman Empire, Slav tribes began to migrate into the area. Around the year 900, the territory and the castle were given to the third son of the Great Moravian King Svätopluk, Preslav. Today it is thought that the German name for Bratislava, Pressburg, was derived from ‘Preslav,’ the first Slav ruler, and ‘burg,’ the German word for castle.
The Hungarians’ arrival in the Carpathian Basin depicted in the Illuminated Chronicle
Public Domain
In the years leading up to 907, the Hungarian tribes fought their way through the Carpathian basin. In July of 907, they arrived in Pressburg. In fact, the first mention of Pressburg by this name was in the reports of the battle there. The defending Franken and Bavarian armies were wiped out by the advancing troops. With their control over the area certain, Bratislava and its castle became a part of the Kingdom of Hungary.
During the Turkish invasion of present-day Hungary, Pressburg/Bratislava, took on a new level of importance. As one of the few castles that had withstood repeated attacks in the past, it was the place Maria of Habsburg chose to flee to after the death of her husband King Louis II of Hungary, at the disastrous battle of Mohaćs in 1526.
In the following years, Pressburg/Bratislava was chosen as the site of the Hungarian government when it left Budapest. As a result, in 1536, Pressburg became the seat of the Hungarian Diet. In addition, St Martins Church became the coronation site of the Hungarian Kings, and the castle became the home of the Holy Crown of Hungary until 1783.
Maria Theresa being crowned Queen of Hungary, St. Martin’s Cathedral, Pressburg
Public Domain
On the ascension of Maria Teresa to the throne of Hungary in 1740, she promised the Hungarian nobility that she would have a residence in Hungary. Maria kept her promise and spend a lot of time in the former Pressburg Castle, which she paid to have converted into a palace. Although the town flourished under her reign, the focus of Hungarian rule slowly returned to Budapest.
Pressburg/Bratislava remained central to Hungarian rule until 1783, when Joseph II decided to focus power in Vienna and Budapest. During his reign, the Hungarian government largely moved back to Budapest. The Castle was emptied of any equipment and the art, crown and crown jewels were moved to Vienna.
La bataille d’Austerlitz. 2 decembre 1805 (François Gérard),
Public Domain
After French victories in Ulm and Austerlitz, in 1805, Pressburg/Bratislava was the location chosen for the signing of the peace between Austria and France, which ended the Holy Roman Empire. The peace did not last long. In 1809, the town and its castle were damaged through bombardment by the troops of Napoleon Bonaparte. Later the town was occupied, and the castle was turned into a barracks for the French troops. Almost inevitably, in 1811, the castle burned down due to the soldiers’ carelessness.
After 1800, Bratislava/Pressburg remained an important city of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It became the first town to be connected to Vienna by rail when the line to Budapest was being constructed. It saw the first publication of Hungarian and Slovak language newspapers, and it became a center of a Slovak National Movement.
Pozsony (Bratislava) in 1915
By FOTO:FORTEPAN / Erky-Nagy Tibor, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link
After the first World War, Slovakia became, reluctantly, part of the newly formed Czechoslovakia. With that, Bratislava was adopted as the official name of former Pressburg. During the following years, the city slowly became more and more Slovak, as ethnically Hungarian and German families left, and Slovaks moved to the city. For a short while, Bratislava, was declared the capital of the first independent Slovak Republic, in March 1939. However, this did not last, with the arrival of Nazi forces during the Second World War.
After the Second World War, Slovakia and Bratislava became part of the Eastern Bloc. The following years saw the city expanded, and become a center for communist industry, in particular, petro-chemicals. The population of the town became over 90 percent Slovak. Occupied by troops of the Warsaw Pact during the 1968 revolution, Bratislava became the center of the 1989 Velvet revolution in Slovakia. After a short while, as part of a free Czechoslovakia, Bratislava became the capital of the Slovak Republic in 1993, following the Velvet divorce from the Czech Republic.
St Martins Cathedral
Building started on St Martins Cathedral in 1311, but had to be stopped due to Hussite incursions during the Hussite wars. The church was finally finished in 1452. Although originally built and decorated in Gothic style, over the years, changes were made. In particular, the Bell tower was replaced several times, and the interior was decorated in the baroque style in the 18th Century.
The Cathedral became the coronation church of the Hungarian Kings in 1563, after the Ottoman Empire took Buda (Budapest). The first king crowned here was Maximillian II, son of Emperor Ferdinand the I of Habsburg, in September 1563. In total, 11 coronations took place here, including, most famously, that of Maria Teresa of Austria.
Of note is the top of the church tower. After damage to the tower in 1847, a copy of the royal Crown of St. Stephen was placed on top to mark the churche’s importance as the coronation church. Weighing about 330lb (150kg, the crown and its pillow, contain around 18lb (8kg) of gold.
Bratislava Castle
The castle sits at a height of 280 feet (85m), and gives an excellent view of the area. After the destruction of the late 19th century, the communist regime of the 1950’s, had originally planned to pull the building down, and build a university here, but the plan was never realized. The castle you see today, on the hill overlooking the town and the Danube below, is largely a modern reconstruction completed in 2010. The modern interior today serves as a representative site for conferences and meetings, as well as being home to the Slovak National Museum.
Grassalkovich Palace
Built in 1760, to be the family home of the Hungarian aristocrat, Count Grassalkovich made his home into a center of the royal court of Maria Teresia. Forming his own orchestra, and to which Prince Esterhazy famously lent his favor
ite conductor, Joseph Hyden. By hosting countless parties and concerts, his home became famous as a center of baroque musical life.
Restored in the 1990’s, by the state, under the watchful eye of the First Lady of Slovakia, Emilia Kováčova, the palace has become the seat of the president of Slovakia since 1996. Although it in not possible to visit the palace, the gardens are open to the public, and from time to time you can glimpse the Presidential Honor Guard in their striking uniforms.
Michalska Gate and Royal Way
Named after St Michal’s church, Michalska Gate was originally the center piece of two walls that ringed the city for defense. While the walls are gone, it is easy to spot the Barbican and the former moat below. The tower today houses a small museum about the town fortifications and its history. The gate formed part of the traditional royal route from the castle to the coronation church in town. Today the route is marked by golden crowns in the pavement leading to St Martins Cathedral.
UFO Bridge – Most SNP
The bridge built over the Danube in 1972, was originally called the ‘Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising’. Intended to create a better connection to Petrźalka, and the rest of Bratislava, the flying saucer shaped top has become a new icon of the city. The UFO, as it has become known, has always housed an observation deck and a restaurant. For a fee of around 10 dollars, you can reach the observation deck by elevator. This price is then deducted from your restaurant bill, should you eat there.
Photo by Martin Proehl
CC BY-SA 3.0, Link
Old Town Hall
The Old Town Hall of Bratislava is a complex of buildings from the 14th century. One of the oldest buildings in Slovakia, the tower dates back to the 1370’s. In the 15th Century, three adjoining houses were connected to create the town hall of today.
Used as a town hall from the 15th century until the late 19th century, today it houses the city museum, well known for its exhibits of torture devices, dungeons, antique weapons, and armor.
For more info: bratislava.eu/museum-of-city-history/
Primates Palace
Between 1778 and 1781, Archbishop Jozsef Batthyány, had the palace built to the designs of Melchior Hefele. Throughout its life, the palace has been the focus of historic events. It was here that the Peace of Pressburg was signed after the battle of Austerlitz, in 1805. In addition, here the first sessions of the Hungarian Diet took place, the establishment of the Hungarian academy of sciences was funded here by Szécheny, and more importantly, it was here, with the support of Emperor Ferdinand V of Hungary, that the first democratically elected Hungarian government was promoted, when he signed the April Laws here in 1884.
Hero and Leandar by Elin One of the Hero and Leander series, in the Primate’s Palace
Designed by Francis Cleyn (c. 1582–1658), CC BY 2.0
In 1903, during reconstruction a previously unknown set of six tapestries depicting the story of Hero and Leander, was discovered hidden behind a wallpaper façade. Created in the famous Mortlake Tapestry Works near London, these priceless tapestries tell the story of the love between the priestess Hero and her lover, Leander, who swam the straits of Bosporus to see his love and drowned one stormy night.
I always enjoy the history lesson and the virtual tours that you are providing to us. Thanks ?